Tuesday, May 26, 2009

FINALLY

After (over) one and a half months, our hunt for a car has FINALLY come to an end. I am going through buyer’s remorse as I’m writing this post, but Azadeh assures me that we made the best decision given our situation, and I reluctantly admit it. We agreed to pay 38,250,000 Zambian Kwacha (between $6,800 and $7,700 depending on the exchange rate you choose to use) for a 1996 Honda CRV. Out of tons of cars (We must have test driven over a dozen cars) this was clearly the second best choice.

The best choice, was a 1997 Toyota Rav 4 for $6,100 with (what I consider to be) significant cosmetic damage, but clean mechanically. Unfortunately, that was the first car we test drove, and by the time we figured out how good of a car that was, someone offered about $7,000 for it.

Most of the cars we saw had been in accidents, and all of them, without any exceptions had cosmetic damage. The car we bought is the one that was in the best shape in that respect, and “only” has a “few” dings and dents – 3 significant dents. In addition, it is missing a drive shaft that enables the 4x4 function, something makes a clicking noise when we drive on un-even surfaces, and the driver’s window moves slowly (about to break?!). Even with these issues, it is considered to be in excellent shape when compared to its “competitors”. Therefore, I agree with Azadeh. We did make the best decision, given our situation. The “only downside” is the fact that I feel that we overpaid by a few hundred dollars, but our landlord thinks it’s a better than fair deal, and people who have bought similar cars also don’t think that we overpaid either. Time will tell.

An entire team of people helped us through the process:

Jason – First and foremost. He is a friend of ours who is a mechanic. He helped us tremendously by inspecting at least half a dozen cars. The car we bought is the only one he approved of, other than the initial Rav 4 we almost bought. On Saturday he spent over an hour and a half just on the Honda. (He was looking for the source of the clicking sound). Thereafter, he spent some more time, repairing the car we borrowed, which, after having a series of issues, finally broke down. It wouldn’t start. I kept trying and trying, with no success. Once we smelled gas, we got concerned and gave up. It turned out that each time I tried starting the car, it lost about a liter of fuel. (Look at pictures below.) Jason came over and corrected the problem. That’s right in addition to checking out the Honda, Jason also repaired the VW. In other words, he spent all day Saturday with me and my cars. I don’t know what we would have done without him. THANK YOU JASON!

Mr. Shula – An employee of PCI who is also a member of the police force, he helped us “check out” the sellers. At one point, we were about to make a move, and it turned out that the potential seller wasn’t actually the owner of the car. What a relief to have people like him around. In addition, he is taking care of all the paperwork, which would have taken me at least an entire day.

Hamed – He helped us with the transaction. He advised that we should not pay the entire amount until we have proof of ownership of the car under our name. At this time we paid 29,000,000 and we will pay the remainder when we have a “white book” (A sheet of paper that states who the owners and “absolute owners” are). Although Hamed’s help was tremendously important, he is also the main reason for my feeling of buyer’s remorse. He is pretty experienced in buying and selling cars, and mentioned that he would not go for anything other than a Toyota, and that we may have trouble selling this car for the same amount we bought it for. Given that we’ve spent over six weeks looking for a Toyota, I feel that we made the right decision in buying this car. However, I also agree with him, and therefore, I’m not too excited about this purchase.

Mehran & Joyce – THANK YOU to our friends who have allowed us to borrow the VW for such a long time!

Moses – The “car agent”. Many cars are sold by agents around here. They collect a fee of around 10% (from what I hear). Moses showed us the initial Rav4, and several other cars. I hoped that we would buy a car from him, as I started getting along with him pretty well. Unfortunately, that did not happen. We ended up buying a car from a private party. However, the seller also had a co-worker/friend/agent.

For consistency’s sake, I’ll bring up the time issue again… although it’s starting to get old, I know… – Total hours I waited for people during the car buying experience: Any guesses?! ….. 15+. The potential sellers were almost always late. The ones I met with more than once improved, given that, as you can see, I am pretty expressive with respect to “time management issues”. I honestly believe that if people here would be punctual on a regular basis, the economy would improve. The most amazing fact however, is that more than once, a potential seller and I were waiting for a member of my team, and the potential seller was always very relaxed, and didn’t mind waiting at all, while I grew more and more impatient every time. In a couple of cases we waited for over two hours. One particular time, the seller even started telling me stories, and then got into Zambian history, just to keep me entertained, where I felt that if anything, I should be the one apologizing to the seller, and attempting to keep him* entertained, given that we were waiting on my team members.

*All sellers I met with were male. Even the cars, that were owned by females, were shown by male representatives (cousins, brothers,…). I’m not quite sure what the reason is, but I imagine that it’s a combination of safety and culture.

Hopefully next week’s post will finally include pictures of “wild animals” other than spiders and lizards… Keep your fingers crossed!

Our new car:




The seller and his agent.





That's GAS streaming out from underneath the car.


Our Landladies - Current and Former


Where's Waldo? Can you see an animal in this picture?




Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Food

Moni Bantu Boonse! Muli Bwanji?

This week’s topic is one of my favorites: Food!

Surprisingly, I don’t see a huge difference between what we eat here, and what we ate in the States. The main difference is that we cook simpler meals at home, given that we have less cookware, and haven’t yet discovered the spices that we are used to. We eat out more often for lunch (every workday) - Thanks to a catering service (owned by our landlord) that serves home cooked meals at our workplace. However, we eat out less often for dinner.

The selection of restaurants is much more diverse than I expected. There are cuisines from all over the world here - (We’ve seen) Chinese, Korean, German, Indian, Lebanese, Arabic, Polish, American, Italian and Irish (I assume that Irish Pubs serve “Irish food”?!). I was surprised to find Subway here, but not McDonald’s and I was also surprised that I haven’t seen any “African” restaurants (yet).

For lunch, we pay less than $3 per meal, and get excellent food. We usually get to choose between two forms of carbs, two forms of protein, and vegetables. I consider lunch to have a good balance between “local” and “not local”. However, my coworkers have had several long lasting email discussions about how lunch is not “authentic enough”.

Having said that, let’s go through a few items on the menu:

  • Nsima/Nshima – This is without a doubt, the “National Food of Zambia”. Locals are very proud of it, and have it on a daily basis. Almost every place I visit, locals ask me whether or not I’ve had Nshima, and how I like it. “Rich people” have it with meat, and not so rich people have it with relish, but everybody has it. Often locals eat with their hands, and the Nshima can serve as a “spoon” to scoop up other food items. Here’s how it’s made. Thanks for the recipe Yanga!
  1. Boil water in a big pot
  2. Make a thick paste with mealie meal (= cornmeal) and water in a bowl
  3. Add the paste to the boiling water to make porridge (the first three steps are known as “kumunyila nsima”)
  4. Let the porridge boil for ten to fifteen minutes
  5. Add mealie meal and stir with a cooking stick to make “pap”. The pap must be soft enough to roll in your hands like dough (this called “kutyakula nsima)
  6. Leave the nsima to simmer for about 5 minutes and serve by dishing out onto plates with a large serving spoon
  • Ox tail – This is the one food, that my body didn’t enjoy as much as my mouth did.
  • Liver – I believe its beef
  • Offals – These are stomach lines and intestines (Don’t look it up at Dictionary.com)
  • Tilapia – Very popular among the locals. They eat everything but the bones including skin and head

Potatoes, rice, noodles, sausage, meatballs, pork chops, chicken, beans, vegetables, cole slaw, salad, and “leafy stuff” are other items offered on a regular basis.























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Ketsia is showing us how to eat with hands.
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My favorite juice here

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Tap water is safe to drink here. However, it is hard water and has a lot of minerals. Just to be safe, we boil the water and then filter it. The following is a picture of boiled tap water in our filter. The white stuff on top is supposedly calcium.

Monday, May 11, 2009

The Recovery

Overall, last week was a good week, even though it started off harsh.

Housing – The last paragraph (hopefully)

Due to a “short circuit” we lost electricity every 20 minutes early in the week, and the main switch (in the landlord’s house) had to be reset. It took the electricians a couple of days (remember, we’re in Zambia) to figure it out, but they did it. As a result of their “research” our home is now featuring two holes in the ceiling of the living room and we have some brown mass stretching from the main fuse box to the ceiling, but those are only cosmetic issues at this point. We have been promised that they will be resolved as of last Friday (so I estimate that it will take about two more weeks). On the positive side, we have finally received most of the furnishings that were promised, and we actually paid rent. We’re still missing burglar bars, a functional front door, and night stands, but I am starting - slowly - to feel better about staying here.

Go Barca!! – The Cake

The Premier League is absolutely huge here – for those of you who don’t know, it’s the British Soccer League. I am watching Chelsea beat Arsenal as I’m writing this post, and previously I visited an Irish pub to watch Manchester United beat Manchester City.

ManU has the biggest following by far around here, but most of my co-workers are huge Chelsea fans. Often they wear blue jerseys on Fridays, and even drink their coffee in Chelsea mugs. Given this situation, I decided to cheer for Barcelona during the recent Semi-Final of the Champions League. Sure enough, Barcelona won – I don’t want to get into the details of the game, but I’ll share that in my opinion the referee of the second leg should be barred for life. The morning after, I went to the local Spar (supermarket), bought a cake and asked the baker to write “Go Barca!!” on it. Wearing red and blue I took the cake to work, where we had several discussions, while enjoying the cake. Even PCI’s country director stopped by to enjoy the “celebration”.

Safaris Coming Up

We have planned two trips. One of them will be a day trip to a place called Chaminuka, which is less than an hour away from home. The second trip will be to South Luangwa, where we plan on going on 4 “game drives”. We tried to secure the trip yesterday, but it is now in jeopardy, because the travel agency that helped us had lost power and we could not book our tickets.

Enjoy the pictures below.

P.S.: I’ll take full credit for Azadeh’s new look! How do you like it? :)
















Sunday, May 3, 2009

The Fall

It’s been over a week now since we moved into our new place. Unfortunately, I am not as happy about being here, as I was initially, for several reasons:

Our landlady has been out of town for almost the entire week. She was initially supposed to be back on Friday, which changed to Monday, and the current status is “most likely Monday, maybe Tuesday”. As each day passes, I am getting more and more annoyed/miserable with the constant delay of much needed home improvements – Thanks to Azadeh reading Steven Covey’s “The Seven Habits of Highly Effective People”, I get reminded that the main cause of my issues – the landlord being out of town - is currently within my circle of concern, but not within my circle of influence. Therefore, it is pointless for me to get upset.

(Mom, skip this paragraph!) My main concern is security. Besides the small fact that our front door is falling apart (may actually be a security feature, except that we’re not able to go in and out without the help of a screwdriver), we don’t have burglar bars, and we don’t have a guard that watches the gate to the property. The “guard” that we do have supposedly hangs out at the other end of the property by the catering kitchen. In other words, anyone could walk on to the property at night, and easily break our windows and …

The one “security feature” that we do have is my second big concern at the same time. Other than the fact that it’s too sweet, it is pretty annoying at the wrong time. Introducing: “Pretty" - The dog”. Although I enjoy playing with her, I don’t enjoy that she woke me up four nights in a row at almost the same time each night – 3:30 am. I suspect that this is the time the bakers come in to prepare their goodies, and the dog wants to ensure that everybody is aware of the fact that someone is on property.

Another concern is the fact that we still don’t have many of the items that we were originally promised: kettle, microwave, coffee table, night stands, Satellite TV,... (wonder which one is the most important...)

The final “house issue” makes me feel mad, sad, powerful and humble all at the same time. We pulled a Donald Trump and fired our maids due to “hygienic reasons”. So now, we’re doing our own cleaning and our own laundry.

With a small and leaky sink, dishes can be hard to wash, but my main cause of distress is laundry. The fact that we have a “manual” washing machine is actually great, given that most places don’t have washing machines at all. However, a side effect that is not so great is that every time we do laundry, at least a gallon of water covers the kitchen floor, and cleaning that up is not fun. The reason: the sink leaks and the washing machine leaks. Additionally, once the clothes are dry, they have to be ironed, and ironed well, because there is a type of fly here that causes “issues”. More on those issues upon request, as this blog is negative enough, but fyi, I “extremely dislike” ironing – yet another cause of distress but not one that I currently have influence over… for now... Our friends have a “good maid" that we may hire once a week to help us… under supervision of course.

Enough for this post. Enjoy the pictures below, and be happy!


"What did you say? There's too much traffic, I can't hear you!!"

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